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We were looking for things to do in the Ikebukuro area when we discovered a historic dagashiya (traditional candy store) located on the grounds of Kishimojindo Temple called Kamikawaguchiya.

When Google first suggested Kishimojindo Temple, we weren't initially sold. A small, seemingly unknown temple? But a little more digging revealed some fascinating reasons to visit, and we're so glad we did.

Kishimojindo Temple in Ikebukuro — Kishimojindo Temple

Step Back in Time at Japan’s Oldest “Dagashiya”

Before convenience stores took over every corner, Japan had charming dagashiyas – traditional candy stores filled with snacks and sweets. Kamikawaguchiya is truly special. Founded in 1781, it's renowned as one of Japan's oldest dagashiya. In an age where these delightful shops are a rarity, visiting Kamikawaguchiya was such a treat.

Kamikawaguchiya Dagashiya Storefront — Kamikawaguchiya - A Dagashiya in Ikebukuro

Walking up to the shop was exciting and the layout was so fun. Some of the snacks and candies were stored in bins typically used in Japan to hold caught bugs. Yes, it might sound a little odd, but bug catching is a cherished childhood pastime there. I remember my cousin proudly showing off his kabutomushi (Japanese rhinoceros beetle) in one of those very boxes. (Me? I was always too afraid of bugs to ever own one).

Snacks in bins and bug boxes — Variety of snacks in bins and bug boxes

We found a mix of nostalgic treats, like dried squid (still super popular), and some snacks you can even find in modern convenience stores. The real fun was rummaging through the bins and containers – a completely different experience than simply grabbing something off a shelf. We each picked out a snack and savored the moment.

A Legacy Passed Through Generations

This isn't just a shop; it's a living piece of history, run by the same family for generations. The current proprietor is the 13th head of the family. We were excited to chat with her, though she was a bit reserved at first. Speaking a little Japanese seemed to open her up, but don't expect a super chatty encounter. Despite that, it's truly remarkable to witness such a long-standing family business.

A Sweet Connection to Studio Ghibli

For all you Studio Ghibli fans out there, get this: Kamikawaguchiya was actually used as a model for the dagashiya in the 1991 film "Only Yesterday" (Omoide Poro Poro)! While we haven't seen this particular film, knowing it inspired such a beloved animation studio adds another layer of magic and cultural significance to this charming spot.

A Peaceful Escape within Temple Grounds

Kishimojin Temple is tucked away in a quiet residential area, offering a serene escape from the urban hustle. Our weekday visit was incredibly peaceful, with only a handful of people around as we enjoyed the stroll to the temple. It's a wonderful contrast to the usual vibrancy of Ikebukuro.

Walking through red temple gates — Walking through the red gates

A Glimpse into a Bygone Era

Even with the somewhat reserved service, our visit to Kamikawaguchiya was wonderful. It offered a delightful glimpse into a bygone era of Japanese life, a stark and charming contrast to the bustling modernity of Ikebukuro. We grabbed some snacks, soaked in the history, and felt lucky to experience a piece of living tradition.